








Pruning isn’t one thing — and a tree that needs one kind of cut might be hurt by another. We work in four pruning styles, and we’ll tell you which one (or which combination) your tree actually needs.
Raising the canopy by removing lower limbs. Lets more light through to the lawn or garden underneath, opens up sightlines, clears walkways and driveways, and helps prevent mildew growth on overshaded roofs.
Shortening heavy-ended or overextended limbs to reduce the risk of failure. Where possible, we reduce a limb instead of removing it outright — it leaves a smaller wound, lower decay risk on the scaffold branches and trunk, and a more natural-looking tree.
Removing dead, broken, hanging, and crossing or rubbing branches. Cuts down on falling-debris hazards, improves the tree’s appearance, and lets light and air move through the inner canopy — which the tree itself benefits from.
Balancing the overall form of the crown. Most often used on ornamentals — Japanese maples, Chanticleer pears, pagoda dogwoods, and similar landscape trees — but useful on larger shade trees too when the goal is aesthetic.